Concept Art from "Longest Day in Chang An" 长安十二时辰造型


Tang dynasty fashion: concept artworks from the hit series "Longest Day in Chang An" 长安十二时辰. The show is based on the acclaimed TV series "24," but it's set in 8th century Tang dynasty China. Over the span of 24 hours, each roughly corresponding to one episode set in the great city~ a group of city guards and constables must thwart the plans of a group of assassins in a cat and mouse chase that span the entire metropolis.

Full series could be seen on Youtube and Amazon Prime.




















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Comments

Der said…
Looking at these pics and watching the show, I find the fashions are reminiscent of Middle Easter or India clothing. I get a slight sense of the non-Chinese origins of Tang fashion.

Am I imagining things??
Dragon's Armory said…
There's good deal of Persian influence, both in terms of the patterns on the silk but also religious clothing. Among the concept art there is a fire worshiper and also a Nestorian Christian. The Tang men's fashion in general is a mixture of northern Chinese and Turkic riding cloths. In women's fashion they were more influenced by Buddhist culture, both the silk ribbons and also the translucent clothing had northern Indian influences, which were in turn influenced from the Greeks.
Dragon's Armory said…
Also here:

Women's fashion:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qixiong_ruqun

Men's Fashion:
Men's special clothing during this period were called round collar robes or Yuanlingpao, a round-collar robe. They have a very formal rounded collar and was used for ceremonial occasions such as attendance at court. But the top collar is double layered- with the outer layer consisting of a lapel so in informal occasions the wearer could unbutton it and let the lapel loose and relax.

Evolution of the Yuanlingpao from Tang to 5D 10K
https://koikishu.tumblr.com/image/163416837572
Der said…
Another thing I noticed, these fashions don't feel like they inspired Japanese fashions and clothing styles at all. Is it a myth that the Japanese copied Tang era style and adapted it to Japan?
Dragon's Armory said…
What do you mean? Nara Japanese fashion very much influenced by Tang aethetics, not only in terms of fashion but in the particular kind of Buddhism etc. The Heian court also tried very hard to centralize their state along the Tang lines.

Nara noble's fashion:
https://pinimg.icu/wall/0x0/nara-period-hanfu-cheongsam-traditional-chinese-traditional-outfits-chinese-Ea168f6d01a0f399d680b45601d391500.jpg?t=5cb63921a8384

https://historum.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.auctions.glasstrio.com%2Fstuff%2Fe%2Fe_japan_silk_41119.jpg&hash=26d9046399b5922cafdb6d6ca5324cd2

https://blog.goo.ne.jp/nietaazuki/e/21ecb125606b4dea540f5766d75bac3d

https://www.galangpratama.com/

https://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/a02221370209/65058560.html

http://blogs.c.yimg.jp/res/blog-fc-78/ppk7857/folder/54200/42/36920042/img_9?1363402996

https://blog-001.west.edge.storage-yahoo.jp/res/blog-67-07/a02221370209/folder/1841793/15/67318915/img_3?1399543042

Even though none of the Japanese of the period probably visited Central Asia
Their silk still had imported patterns from Persia and Central Asia

https://www.fashion-kyoto.or.jp/orikyo/maturi/subwin/nara01.html

Nara Japanese monks were very much influenced by Tang aethetics.
The Tang dynasty helmets practically looked identical to the early Japanese samurai helmets during the Heian/ Gempei War period minus the V shaped crests.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-41jczRQFbjk/WbaiUzT06QI/AAAAAAAAN-E/XKwJgDc6yfQv-e16IeC2IUnuxw3f94ngQCLcBGAs/s1600/1-1503141P103241%2B%25281%2529.png

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YcCbiiEImDU/Wbajs0ipmnI/AAAAAAAAN-c/O9X6KnJew64pgTi8TMZEHsmfuuzBfuO0gCLcBGAs/s1600/Yulin_Cave_25_n_wall_Maitreya_Sutra_3_%2528Tang%2529%2B-%2BCU.jpg

Dragon's Armory said…
The Japanese nobles pretty much adopted the fashion of these 2 types:

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R7JUWuBT-PQ/XT9NqzNq6FI/AAAAAAAAeK4/weYDxxpKQf4qUp4F383qKXnLHQwhtuztgCLcBGAs/s1600/3c4df9ab189ea319336c578b4e5dc95fe6d1b52cbdc10-BkYuj4.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z9pgPicoWEo/XT9NwpOk9II/AAAAAAAAeLU/mlg-FIU2n-UD4oNEvJ544yAYuif9j_kbwCLcBGAs/s1600/8567a85708d7a46473848513876d1b102425d61a1a5ca-sk4CRu.jpg
Der said…
Sorry, I mean current present day Japanese fashions, or at least later Heian and Sengoku and even Tokugawa and up to today. Nara was of course contemporary of Tang.

I guess many people, Chinese people especially, think that Japan just copied wholesale Tang dynasty fashion and titles and culture and then just froze in time and never changed. It makes people think Japanese fashions and architecture is 'more Chinese' than the Chinese, especially after the Manchu Qing period.

Instead what happens is all over the world people borrow and copy from each other and change that over time to suit their needs, just like Tang fashions emulated Steppe traditions, and Sogdian fashions, and Buddhist style, etc, etc, ... the Japanese did the same and then adapted and changed it over time.
Dragon's Armory said…
Modern Chinese would not claim stuff from the Edo period or Sengoku as theirs, some jingoistic bumpkins might try but others might look at them weird. BC it's so distinctive that they wouldn't even claim it bc it's so foreign, if they see a samurai armor or castle they might not even know how to work it bc they don't have their own local frame of reference for it.

Early and early feudal Japanese architecture still has strong Tang roots though. The Tang architecture feature prominent white plastered walls and black/ red frames

https://www.quora.com/How-much-was-Japan-influenced-by-the-Tang-dynasty
henrique said…
Well... it should be said... Japan was afraid of an invasion by the tang. The history is similar to Matthew C. Perry in 1853. The big goal in learning from the neighboring powers ( the oversimplified story is all about the tang, which is wrong) was to bring "self-strengthening movement" (so better chances of fighting against the supposed stronger external opponent... ). As following results.. economy, political organization were tools to make it all possible, culture is just the end result of everything

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jinshin_War

The tang were clearly conquerors of northeast Asia in the 7th century. Goguryeo-tang war, Silla-tang war, Baekje–Tang War (Battle of Baekgang). Emperor Tenji utilized skilled peninsular refugees to construct at least seven fortresses to protect Japan's coastline from invasion
Dragon's Armory said…
Oh yeah, the ruling class was certainly spooked. With a lot of disputes about how to deal with the Tang. ^Hence the state's attempt to centralize the divided clans into an imperial bureaucracy.
Der said…
Japan's ruling class spooked by the Tang? Really ?? I thought it was all about admiration and love for Tang culture and society. There is a darker side to this relationship? I would be surprised Tang even knew where Japan was, let alone planned any sort of invasion. But from the Japanese perspective, I guess, yes, ... Tang would look threatening, especially after the failure of their intervention in Korea which is one of history's greatest untold stories maybe Dragon's Armory can enlighten us more to these events?? It sounds like an earlier version of the Imjin War but a thousand years prior !!
Dragon's Armory said…
Well the Battle of Baekgang between the Tang and the Japanese has a lot to do with the particular nature of the Korean 3 Kingdoms, basically Goguryeo was the military top dog of the 3, with Silla being very cunning and Baekje having a special relationship with the Japanese. Goguryeo and Baekje are allies while Silla broached an alliance with the Tang.

Goguryeo had long being a thorn to Tang ambitions (with Taizong himself failing to invade from the north) so the Tang bypassed Goguryeo completely by using a naval invasion of Baekje from the sea. Baekje was overwhelmed and was annexed by the Tang- Silla forces. The Baekje court appealed to the Japanese and in order to preserve their old alliance with Baekje, Japan intervened on behalf of Baekje with a fleet. Near the mouth of a river the Tang- Silla forces and Baekje- Japanese clashed and the Tang decimated the Japanese. After this Japan decided to study the Tang much more closely. The Baekje nobles eventually married into the Japanese nobility.
Der said…
The Baekje Restoration War ... absolutely fascinating. To think that Japan, a country that just came out of the Bronze Age could send a fleet and challenge the Tang, the mightiest empire in the world at that time, it shows the Japanese to have always been an arrogant race. And their response afterward, shockingly resembling their response to Admiral Perry's 'opening' up Tokugawa Japan in the 19th century, over a thousand years later!! (although the Japanese didn't do the same during the Mongol Invasions I think).

So when are you doing a series on the Baekje War ??
Dragon's Armory said…
Well, Japan had Iron by the 6th and 7th century, most of their smelting techniques and armor designs were directly imported from the Koreans, though with their own additions, like extra ridges and emphasis of the hour glass shape of the cuirass etc. Them joining the war was less due to arrogance but largely a combination of ignorance and duty obligations.

As for the Mongol Invasion, yes they did, the Hojo Regents got spooked and built a series of forts and sea walls all along the SW bays where they expected the Mongols to land. And for the most part they did play a role in inflicting damages to Mongol invaders.

As for doing a series on the Baekje War...Hmmm, trying to present it has a set of problems. Although I could probably get a composite of the event from the 3 country's sources what bothers me is the extreme lack of images available to convey this battle. I'm very picky with image selection and as of now there's just very little images for~ say: typical Baejke soldiers and army (there are a lot for Goguryeo but not Baekje) Japanese ship during this period. Tang naval vessels, etc. Frankly there's just very little images for south Korean kingdom soldiers during this period. Most are either poorly lit museum photographs, anime fan art, furry art, or...well, my own art for the Goguryeo cataphract. Idk, this battle is interesting in hindsight, for all involved (except Baekje maybe) it was just a foot note. Silla eventually unified Korea and have other things to tend to, Japan was more interested in adopting Tang customs, and the Tang just thought the ordeal was a foot note. I will cover it one day, but right now I am waiting for more images for the south Korean kingdoms.
Dragon's Armory said…
Btw I mean ignorance in the sense that they don't really fully grasp the Tang as an tangible entity. Sure there is a similar culture between the Yamato and the Baekje, and the Gaya Confederacy, but the Tang was something else to be conceptualized. The ancient Japanese had sent tributes to the Chinese for rewards and recognition as local kings, but they can't imagine something they don't have a frame of reference for.

Say China is big...how big? Say China has a numerous army...well are they like warriors, but only more of them? Say China is advanced...what does that exactly mean bc when there is sufficient enough of a gap then it might as well be magic. After these wars- one of the reasons Japan swiftly adopted many Tang styled system was because they realized there is a huge technological gap. If anything, Japan's rapid attempt to imitate Tang culture kind of foreshadows their later ability to quickly consume Western techs and customs and adopt in their own ways.
henrique said…
This comment has been removed by the author.
Dragon's Armory said…
Well Japan did flash freeze and preserve a lot of Chinese traditions, a lot of them that had been lost in the ensuing centuries. Some of the oldest temples in Nara were directly copied from Chinese models and the temple statues had warriors decked in Chinese armors. So for context, Japan does retain a lot of lost and missing links that could shed light on China's past. It's important to point to the distinction that unlike mongolia, central asia, Xinjiang, tibet, Japan retained a lot of those old traditions. While Korea and Vietnam retained more recent traditions.

The same logic also extends to Korea and Taiwan's preservation of the Neo-Confucian traditions.But in the messy world of today's politics and consumerist 24 hour mainstream news cycle culture that is being eroded as well.
henrique said…
This comment has been removed by the author.
Khal said…
The Tang-dynasty paintings in the Mogao Caves have a striking resemblance with some Japanese temples of the Nara/Heian period.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fd/T%27ang_Architecture_in_the_Mo-kao_Fresco_1.jpg

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fb/T%27ang_Architecture_in_the_Mo-kao_Fresco_2.jpg


Now as to whether those paintings influenced with the accuracy of the reconstruction of Japanese architecture of that period and Chang'an I cannot speculate with accuracy.

That could result in putting the cart before the horse.
henrique said…
This comment has been removed by the author.
Muramasa said…
Really long Tang era clothing and the men’s clothing you stated was primarily influenced by Turkic and Northern influence? The Yuanlingpao became introduced/popular during the Tang? Or did it become fashionable earlier during The Northern and Southern Dynasties and the Sui?
Dragon's Armory said…
Much earlier, they were already popular during the N and S Dynasties, the Sui themselves also had heavy Persian influence
XXX512 said…
Japanese kimono is divided into ordinary Wufu and noble Tangfu.
The civilian Wufu gradually evolved into the common kimono style now.
Wu clothing is a popular clothing in the Soochow area during the Three Kingdoms period of China.
Tang clothing is actually not the characteristic clothing of the Tang Dynasty in China. Only the ordinary fashions of the Nara period and the Tang Dynasty of China are similar. Because of this era, the Tang Dynasty was the most brilliant and the exchanges between Japan and China were the most frequent. After this period, the Japanese imperial family and nobility restored their earlier clothing characteristics (Chinese Han Dynasty). The dress style of the Japanese imperial family now. Although it is called Tangfu, only the Nara period is more consistent with Tangfu. But it is the style of Chinese Han Dynasty clothing.
Japanese Tang clothes are actually Han Dynasty clothes, while Chinese Tang Dynasty clothes also use Han Dynasty clothes in the grand ceremony. So the two are similar, but the more similar is the same source-Chinese Han Dynasty clothes.
In the early Ming Dynasty of China, the Japanese envoy once said in response to the inquiry of the Chinese Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang: Japan is the Chinese Han Dynasty costume, and the Tang Dynasty etiquette.
Dragon's Armory said…
Hmmm, could me
Their preservation of the original form is tied with the origin of their legitimacy of power.
It was during the Wei and later empires that the Chinese conferred local Japanese chiefs with recognitions of power, in material goods like silk bolts and bronze ware so that's why the preservation of this conference of power and supremacy (of the imperial line among other chieftans) is so important.
Unknown said…
I believe Japanese kimono evolved from the han dynasty clothing via to the hata clan which later became associated with the poor after the latest trends imported from China.... samurai culture sharing poor background in its origin, peasant provincial roots would make """han dynasty""" style to the top again. According to the Shinsen Shōjiroku, the Hata clan were dispersed throughout a number of provinces during the reign of Emperor Nintoku and forced to practice sericulture and silk manufacturing for the court, han dynasty's silk technology was the most advanced so far in antiquity

Kimono is like han dynasty's dress called shenyi a single piece of clothing piece instead of 2: upper garment and skirt, on the other hand hanbok derived from Ruqun . The shenyi remained the dominant form of Chinese dress worn from the Zhou dynasty to the Han dynasty, which includes the Qin dynasty, like this:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wall-Painting_from_a_Han_dynasty_Tomb_in_Tung-p%27ing_County.jpg#mw-jump-to-license

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Detail_of_the_Painting_on_a_Lacquerware_from_State_of_Ch%27u.jpg#mw-jump-to-license




http://imgur.com/gallery/Z9U7L0h

Notice the "obi"



In its early days, the obi was a cord or ribbon-like sash, approximately 8 centimetres (3.1 in) in width. Men's and women's obi were similar. At the beginning of the 17th century, both women and men wore a thin, ribbon-like obi

Yeah tang dynasty customs were discontinued by japanse court and fashion restored (or at least they tried to, I am looking at Ming dynasty's tang revival) to the period 2-3 centuries earlier such teeth blackening, It died out almost entirely in the Nara Period in the eighth century , but the custom of blackening teeth was soon revived

Heian upperclasswomen's closest relative in History is wuyue culture's clothing in the 4-5th century CE.
https://www.ikedashi-kanko.jp/en/spot/recommend-spot16.html

https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%91%89%E6%9C%8D%E7%A5%9E%E7%A4%BE

Heian period 袿/uchiki evolved from 袿衣 :
https://zh.m.wikipedia.org/zh-hans/%E9%AD%8F%E6%99%89%E5%8D%97%E5%8C%97%E6%9C%9D%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE#%E8%A2%BF%E8%A1%A3

Gofuku (呉服) is the term used to indicate silk kimono fabrics, composed of the characters go (呉) (meaning "Wu" - a region in ancient China where technology of weaving silk greatly developed) and fuku (服) (meaning "clothing").
The term 'gofuku' is also used to refer to kimono in general within Japan, particularly within the context of the kimono industry, as traditional kimono shops are referred to as either gofukuten (呉服店) or gofukuya (呉服屋) - with the additional character of "ya" (屋) meaning 'shop'. .

In the Jin dynasty, 袿衣 became popular as women's clothing, notice the long skirt shares in common with 袿/uchiki

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_(detalle_I)_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih.jpg

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Mujeres_Sabias_y_Benevolentes_%28detalle_II%29_por_Ku_K%27ai-chih.jpg