Early Tang Dynasty- Empress Wu's Zhou Dynasty Noblewoman: 唐武周仕女

Reenactor:  随音（女摄）

Music: Smoke Rises High

The common conception of Tang Dynasty beauty often conjures two powerful images: the full, Rubenesque figures favored during the High Tang's Kaiyuan era, or the geisha-like elaborations of the Late Tang, with their ornate, flowing robes and heads heavy with gilded hairpins. The aesthetic of the early Tang, particularly during the period when Empress Wu Zetian declared her own Zhou Dynasty (690-705 CE), was a world apart from both. It was an era defined by a unique and striking silhouette that was simple, form-fitting, and almost androgynous- often with straight sleeves rather than robe like draping ones, narrow waist, and a severe bun- though surmounted by elaborate tall rising coif that resembles a shark fin.

Art: 白人阿又

Fashion in the early Tang favored slim, willowy figures with clothing that featured short jackets and blocky patterns. This preference for slender forms was a holdover from the preceding Wei and Jin periods. During this earlier phase, the most distinctive feature of a woman's appearance was her hair. Some favored tall double buns- which were also used by palace maids, others are far more visually striking.

A Severe and Powerful Profile: The signature hairstyle was a tall, sharp bun, often described as resembling a shark's fin. This high coiffure, known as Gaoji (高髻), was a defining feature, towering and complex. It evolved from high bun styles that were already gaining popularity in the palace during the reign of Emperor Taizong.

Painted wooden wigs, known as Yiji (义髻), These lightweight frames acted as a spine or armature. A woman's natural hair, supplemented with additional wigs made from human or animal hair, could then be woven and coiled around the Yiji to create the desired towering shape. This allowed for the creation of elaborate buns for formal occasions without relying solely on a large volume of natural hair, while daily hairstyles could remain smaller and more practical. This technique gave rise to a variety of tall chignons, which became a hallmark of the Wu Zetian period before evolving into the broader, rounder styles favored in the subsequent High Tang era. 

Reenactor: 落日

Studio: 包意凡艺术工作室

Decoration, while present, was used with a degree of minimalism compared to later periods. Colorful pins, combs, and jewels were often fixed to the sides of the high bun, adding accents of color and luxury without overwhelming the stark silhouette.

Reenactor: 张小花

Early Tang dynasty lady employing a painted wooden Yiji (义髻) as the crown of her hair.

Early Tang dancer in heavy makeup- 

Dancer of the Tang dynasty from the Astana Tombs- Turpan, Xinjiang, China

Reenactor: 海鱼两只

The lower dress is also inspired by Astana artifacts- including an exquisite doll figurine rendered in colors. Early and High Tang periods saw the highest Tang influence in the Tarim Basin and was part of the Anxi Protectorate- a key Tang garrison in the west.

Reenactor: 申小井

A Tang noblewoman with elaborate hairpins- women were promoted to great prominence during Empress Wu's reign and shortly after, and China even witnessed its first female Prime Minister during this time.

Reenactor:  随音（女摄）

An older tradition of veiled headwear, the Mili (幂蓠), was a feature of the Sui and early Tang periods. It consisted of a hat with a long, draping veil that could extend to the wearer's hips or even knees, concealing most of the body from public view. The practice was adopted from the nomadic peoples of Central Asia, where such coverings offered practical protection against the wind and sand of the steppes. In the Central Plains, aristocratic women of the Sui and early Tang adopted the Mili as a conservative expression of modesty, especially when riding horses. 

During the early Tang, this fashion evolved. The long, cumbersome veil of the Mili was shortened, giving rise to the Weimao (帷帽), a wide-brimmed hat with a more portable, shoulder-length veil. The less restrictive Weimao grew immensely popular, particularly during the era of Empress Wu Zetian. Its use spread from palace ladies to commoners, becoming a fashionable accessory for travel and outdoor activities that protected the wearer's elaborate makeup from the elements. 

Finally, the older, full-body Mili faded from use, eclipsed by the shoulder-high Weimao that came to define the public fashion for women across the social strata of the period.